Of all the books that will be published in New Zealand in 2023, it’s hard to imagine there will be many more important than this one. It’s a gem; thought provoking, startling, persuasive and entertaining, exploring how the way we drink has been shaped by factors far beyond any individual's control.

Alcohol has long held a pervasive grip on so many aspects of life in this country. As Espiner asks in the introduction, have you ever wondered why ‘so many of us place alcohol at the centre of every occasion?’ Booze is ‘always there.’ It’s made to seem ‘like an essential part of everyday life, associated not only with fun and friendship but also with success, strength and achievement.’

That’s hard to dispute. Although New Zealand has changed in many ways during the past few decades, our relationship with alcohol mostly hasn’t. It’s the socially acceptable drug of choice, despite being responsible for more harm (both tangible and intangible) than many other substances.

We might be already aware of some of this but Espiner adds new layers and investigates the how and the why in a lively, insightful way, backed by rigorous research and blended with personal experience.

He knows both sides of the coin. A high profile journalist, with hefty roles at TVNZ and Radio New Zealand, he had the ear of Prime Ministers, senior politicians and policy makers. He was also an alcoholic, unable to moderate his consumption, until he went teetotal in 2019.

The personal chapters can be jarring to read but the lived experiences add to authenticity of the message. He’s passionate about his subject but not a born again zealot. He understands the intrinsic appeal of alcohol, across cultures and centuries but skilfully puts in context the widespread issues with modern drinking culture, particularly in Aotearoa.

The most powerful passages deal with the cosy relationship between the alcohol industry and government. Espiner is an expert on the political landscape and has some fascinating anecdotes, backed up by compelling research. Big Tobacco has been sidelined from policy input since 1990, but the brewing giants retain a seat at the top table. That has enabled the permissive environment that exists here; widespread alcohol advertising, almost no limits on sponsorships (even health charities!!), no minimum unit pricing and more and more liquor outlets.  Successive governments have done little, with the arguments of powerful lobby groups trumping strong and urgent recommendations from ministries, reports and forums.

One of the saddest case studies cited was a South Auckland high school encircled by several licensed premises, including one on the doorstep. Despite the pleas and protestations from the principal, police, community leaders and other stakeholders, licenses were renewed, which eventually led to the school relocating its main entrance. Another bewildering revelation was the fact that alcohol education in high schools relies on a programme funded by booze companies.

Espiner delves into the health effects of consumption – busting a few myths – and pointing out that 1000 Kiwis each year die from alcohol related causes (smoking kills around 5000). He shows how alcohol companies have successfully targeted females as a growth market, with the health risks for women ignored, using the “cloak of empowerment and equality” to increase profits.

Espiner is an activist for change but also a realist. He understands alcohol is part of the fabric of our culture but believes it should be treated (and classified) in a similar way to many other drugs. It’s a powerful argument, backed by evidence and research that is hard to ignore.

This book – a mix of autobiography, analysis, advocacy and anthropology – is a vital work. It will be an uncomfortable read for some but that’s what it takes to provoke real change.

Reviewed by Michael Burgess